Posts in Design
Blog 6: Interrupted Patterns

Next week, I will finally take part in an in-person craft fair again! I really look forward to the meeting the other makers, visitors and having the chance to talk about my work, my ideas and processes.

Being self-employed and working on my own the majority of the time, these moments to share and to get feedback on my work are really precious!

In this blog, I wanted to share the thoughts and ideas behind my new collection, Interrupted Patterns, that I will be launching at the Craft Festival at Bovey Tracey from 17-19th June.

In my earlier posts (January and February) I wrote about my visit to the British Museum, my current fascination with ancient Greek myths and the creation process of a particular brooch (Elpis – Hope), which is now part of the current Meanings and Messages touring show of the Association for Contemporary Jewellery. (Please see the link for touring dates and venues.) I have also written about this amazing exhibition in my May blog where I focus on my favourites of the show.

The Elpis brooch led on to the making of a second one (The Greek Shard II) and the exploration of patterns.

 

Patterns have always fascinated me. In 2005 I travelled to Portugal and was amazed by the tile work on the facades of buildings. I took so many photos without really knowing why. (This was a few years before I returned to making).

I loved how the patterns were constructed; how each individual tile was part of a larger image and I wondered how they were constructed and imagined in the first place.

The images below show how the overall pattern on a wall was often created by the corners of the tiles, rather than the full area of each tile. (Click to enlarge!)

Earlier this year, when visiting family in Jerusalem, I went with my father-in-law to the Museum of Islamic Art. We both agreed it was a treasure trove of amazing artefacts of different places and times. Again, patterns (and of course the examples of exquisite ancient jewellery) struck me. (Click to enlarge!)

Back at home, I leafed through the many books I accumulated over the years, trying to bring it all together. The Grammar of Ornament by Owen Jones being a favourite. I kept returning to a lens-shape that was used in patterns of different cultures. This simple shape would be arranged in a variety of ways to make up complex patterns.

When writing my February blog about Greek ceramics and the creation of my brooch, I started to understand that I was particularly drawn to the broken shards of pottery found in the ground: the pieces on which only parts of patterns could be seen. Those pieces, where the actions of time had done their part in removing some of the original decorations, leaving behind only traces, hints of once beautiful and complex patterns.

It was exactly this, that fascinated me: what happens in the mind when a pattern is interrupted. It seems that the mind seeks to continue it, imagining what it could have been, making connections of its own accord and perhaps making up stories about the use and users of the original object.

These broken shards of a Greek amphora illustrate the point. You can read here the story of the piece, its original use and how they were pieced together again.

Interrupted or disjointed patterns are beautiful in themselves, they may no longer be perfect, but by being disjointed they form new, irregular patterns. As before, the mind may continue them or perhaps seeks to repair them, making them whole again.

For my new pieces I then started to draw random outlines containing patterns, usually with combinations of the lens-shapes and lines. As I continued, I focussed on a particular layout of the lens shape in formations of four around a dot.

I imagined the pieces to be made in two different techniques – one being made with the Keum-Boo process that I have used in the past to create, for example, my stripy pieces; the other being made with 18ct gold. The latter was to be quite different in character to the first, giving a raised, more three-dimensional surface than before.

Having started out with the two brooches on random outlines, I wanted these pieces to have regular backgrounds, so that the viewer would concentrate on the patterns.

The following images show the process of making these pieces (Click to enlarge!)

Here, a few images of one of the final pieces. It is made from recycled sterling silver and 18ct Single Mine Origin (SMO) gold.

Following on from these pieces, I continued doing drawings for the Keum-Boo pieces. I moved away from the regular lens-shape and allowed my drawings to become freer. It reminded me a little of painting, using long brush-strokes to make ink marks on paper.

Some of these drawings are shown below and the ones on the right led to the small lapel pin brooch below, which is currently exhibited at Contemporary Applied Arts, London.

 
 
 
 
Blog 5: Meanings and Messages

Meanings and Messages is the title of the current touring exhibition of the Association for Contemporary Jewellery (ACJ) that opened on 30th April 2022 at the St George’s Art Centre in Gravesend.

In my February blog I wrote about a brooch I made as my entry for this exhibition. I was thrilled that my piece Elpis (Hope) Brooch was selected as one of the 60 participants for this show and decided to travel to the opening day with my family.

Prior to the exhibitions, all entries were beautifully photographed by Simon B Armitt for the printed catalogue that was produced and the show was curated and displayed by the ACJ team, notably Exhibition Manager Joanne Haywood and ACJ Director, Terry Hunt.

Each entry came with a statement that explained the thoughts behind the piece. This statement was not shown next to the cabinets so as to encourage your own thoughts when viewing the pieces, but they were printed in the catalogue.

As the pandemic prevented many such physical shows from being organised it was a real pleasure to take part in the opening day and meet and catch up with old friends.

I wanted to use my May Blog to write about some of my own favourites of this exhibition:

All selected pieces were sorted into broad categories to make the display easier and these were:

1. Social Justice and Societal ChangeA fairer world for all, technology, consumerism and conflict

2. SupernatureCelebrating the wonder of the natural world

3. Tributes and personal narrativesFor our heroes and loved ones, personal reflection and biographical pieces

4. Our beautiful planetClimate change, conservation, sustainability, ecology and animal rights.

5. Coronavirus (Covid-19)Personal reflections and global impacts.

6. Love, hope and faithHumanity, lore, talismans and amulets.

I was very moved by the different approaches of the makers to the theme of the exhibition and the thoughts behind the pieces when reading the catalogue. I will choose one piece from each section:

1. Social Justice and Societal ChangeZ(eros) No Ones by Emma McGilchrist. I had the pleasure of meeting Emma at the opening and we chatted about our respective pieces in the exhibition and our thoughts behind it. I love the different layers of meaning behind this brooch, especially the one challenging Freud’s interpretation of women as Zero “a gap, absence of maleness and therefore lesser being.”

Z(eros) No Ones brooch by Emma McGilchrist

 

2. SupernatureCity Garden Brooch by Sophie Martin-Glinel. Sophie’s brooch is a beautiful interpretation of her urban surroundings. She notices the beauty present even in her built-up, often industrial surroundings where one would not often suspect nature to be. Sophie notices that, and her brooch signifies how nature finds ways to fight its way through the most challenging elements of urbans landscapes.

City Garden Brooch by Sophie Martin-Glinel

 

3. Tributes and personal narratives – This section of the exhibition was particularly touching and it was hard to pick just one entry. So I picked two – both moving tributes to lost loved-ones.

a. Jane Sedgwick’s brooch Forget-Me-(K)not pays tribute to the skills passed on from mother to daughter and she uses threads from of her late mother’s sewing box to make her piece. Incorporating the threads her mother touched and worked with is a particularly moving memento – significant perhaps especially to a fellow maker, for whom materials and touch are important elements to how we live, view and interpret the world.

Forget-Me-(K)not brooch by Jane Sedgwick

 

b. Anne Walker’s brooch Fragility of Life: Dear Tam – This brooch is a beautiful tribute to the recently deceased Tamizan Savill, long-time member and Chief Executive of the Association for Contemporary Jewellery. The brooch is Anne’s final farewell letter to Tamizan. It is composed of long pieces of printed paper strips “with a jumble of messages and mixed emotions” which are loosely laced together and – like paper – signify the fragility of life.

Fragility of Life: Dear Tam brooch by Anne Walker

 

4. Our beautiful planetBefore it’s too Late Brooch by Sarah Jane Wilmott: Sarah’s brooch is a call to action to remind ourselves that so much more still needs to be achieved to tackle climate change. The brooch is made from charcoal and fine silver, with the charcoal leaving a mark on the wearer – just like human action has had on the planet. A beautifully evocative piece that should all make us think and renew our commitment to preserve and protect our planet.

Before it’s too Late Brooch by Sarah Jane Wilmott

 

5. Coronavirus (Covid-19)Lonely Fish brooch by Mandy Nash: Mandy’s brooch resonated strongly with me. The impact of the pandemic on children and young people was particularly strong and are still felt. The absence of social contact with friends, the known rhythm of life and school and a certain predictability were hard to cope with. Although speaking to the children about these things, adults struggled with them too. Anxieties remained and – as depicted in the brooch – children and adults still appear on the outside as ‘jolly fish’ but are in fact “struggling to keep the head above water” and feel like they are “swimming against the tide.”

Lonely Fish brooch by Mandy Nash

 

6. Love, hope and faithAll You Need Is Love brooch by Joanne Haywood. My own brooch also came in this category, but one brooch I particularly liked was Jo’s. The warmth and compassion of her thoughts really stirred me. To respond with kindness, compassion and understanding to other people in need and especially in such turbulent times as the last few years, not only helps others, but also lifts our own spirits and adds meaning to our own lives. The use of her materials, colour and symbolisms underlines the above.

All You Need Is Love brooch by Joanne Haywood

 

As part of the main exhibition, exhibitors were also asked to send in samples or test pieces they had made for their brooches. This was to enable especially visually impaired persons to experience the exhibition. This was a particularly lovely part of the exhibition. As the actual brooches were shown in glass cabinets it was fantastic to be able to touch and feel the materials and textures used in the pieces.

If you are able to go I would encourage you to see the exhibition and/or buy the catalogue to read the thoughts behind each piece. The following are the tour dates and locations:

30th April 2022 – 29th May 2022: St Georges Arts Centre - Gravesham Borough Council - in partnership with LV21

1st -3rd July 2022: Exeter University – Conference Pop-Up exhibition

19th September - 28th October 2022: Vittoria Street Gallery – Birmingham School of Jewellery

16th November – 21st Dec 2022: Mission Gallery in partnership with Swansea College of Art UWTSD

9th January – 24th February 2023: Goldsmiths Centre, London

4th April – 18th June 2023: New Brewery Arts, Cirencester









My First Blog: Ancient Greece

Over Christmas 2021 I planned a new project for this year: an exciting and hopefully inspiring and sustaining idea for me. I am going to write a monthly blog. One article per month about … anything really. Anything that has relevance to my work as a jeweller and creative person. I often wish for a space to explain more, talk more and I think this might be a good space for it. We will see how it goes. I hope you will find it interesting!

Here now my first article, maybe a little different from the others I am planning, but I wanted to start with something special, something more personal …

Ancient Greece

Friday morning, 21st January 2022. I am on a train to London, excited as a child on her first school trip. I have not been to a museum in a long time and this is therefore really special, a gift to myself. The kids are in school and I have around six hours to get to London and back, walk to the museum and look around.

The weather is cold, frosty and the sun is somewhere behind the clouds but I am just getting in the mood, thinking about the hot sun in ancient Greece. It is taking me back to September 1997 when I went to Greece on a four-week travel scholarship to research contemporary Greek jewellery. This came at the end of my three years at Central St Martins for my jewellery degree. I had really needed a break. The trip took me to Athens, Crete and Ioannina. I visited countless museums, saw endless Greek vases, jewellery and just really enjoyed being away from London.

24 years later, a book gift from my husband and time over Christmas got me reading. I had already started on Greek mythology a year ago when both my husband and daughter read the Greek myths. Reading all these stories, imagining the scenes, landscapes and art I longed to be close to Greek history, Greek artefacts again. I have numerous books on Greek art, patterns and jewellery but seeing them in real life is different.

I finally get to the British Museum. It is still early but in the end I only manage to see two rooms but take in every last detail. School children with their notepads run around, trying to find this or that object on their list. It does not really interest them. I understand. What has changed for me? The time has come, it is the right moment. It makes sense.

Room 12 is about Minoan Crete and Mycenaean Greece in the Bronze Age, apparently the time in which Homer places the events of the Illiad and the Odyssey. Standing in front of the cases holding pieces of jewellery, pottery and carved stones seals I feel humbled and amazed. I have a book, entitled Greek Gold, of an exhibition I had seen at the British Museum in 1994, just as I was studying jewellery design. The close-up images are wonderful to look at to really appreciate the workmanship and detail of the pieces.

However, standing in front of the show-case of pieces found on Crete I am blown away by the scale. Minute, tiny balls of granulation and the most delicate filigree wires adorning the body of a fly or bee. No more than perhaps 20 mm long, the gold is worked with amazing expertise and skill.

(My image does not do justice to the piece.) Imagining the simplicity of tools and equipment available then - 1700-1550 BCE - the pieces attain yet another level of wonder.

Slowly, I work my way around the exhibits until I reach the next room: 13 – Greece 1050-520 BCE. Getting even more excited I cannot wait to see the painted vases with scenes of the Greek myths. But before I do, there are the examples of the Geometric period – the patterns I had come for.

I come to a vessel entitled The Elgin Amphora (760-750 BCE), this piece encapsulates the beauty of ancient artefacts for me. I stand in close proximity to this amphora, I can almost touch it, touch what a person, an artist created almost 2800 years ago. I can see him (I guess it would have been a man) in my mind, I can imagine a person with daily struggles, with a certain taste, how he sits in a workshop painting the vase. I see the perfection he created and yet, how the passage of time has added an extra dimension, a historical, imperfect, human dimension.

But it is not just the passage of time that I can see as damage and decay in the pieces on display, it is their use, their interaction with people from that time. I imagine how the jewellery adorned the women, the occasions they wore them, the person using one of these ceramic vessels for storing grains or oil – and to me this is the essence, the beauty of history: when objects open a window to a past world, to the lives and struggles of people long forgotten but whose lives somehow live on in these objects.

Finally, I turn around and come to the vases with mythological scenes. I smile under my mask and it feels as if I am meeting long-lost friends. I admire the beauty of the composition of the vessels, their proportions, the delicately drawn faces, limbs and clothes on the vases and the scenes come to life. I want to remember it all, but know I will buy another book to carry them home with me to live with me, to nourish and inspire my own work for some months to come.

[Amphora depicting Heracles bringing the Erymanthian boar to Eurystheus during his twelve labours; made in Athens around 550BCE.]