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Blog 20: New Work for Cluster: The Spoils of War

I have been invited to exhibit at Cluster – an international contemporary art jewellery fair in London in March 2024. (Details below.) I was honoured to have been asked to take part and wanted to create some special pieces for this show.

As Cluster is more focussed on unusual and experimental pieces, this show seemed to afford the opportunity of greater freedom of expression whilst being less focussed on commercial considerations. In this blog, therefore, I wanted to tell the story behind these three new pieces:

 

 For a few years, I have been fascinated by Greek mythology and similar contemporary books, which re-interpret these classical tales. Many of these books re-imagine the stories from a female perspective. I was struck by the cruelty in these stories, especially the cruelty towards women that was regarded as acceptable forms of behaviour. Whilst these tales were written in another time, some of the actions and views they describe, however, feel distinctly contemporary.

We live in a world of war, uncertainty and worry. I am sad that many things I believed about the future when I was growing up and took for granted, my children may not be able to take for granted anymore.

The war in Ukraine, Syria and now in Israel/Gaza (and the many other less often heard about wars in the world) are heart-breaking reminders that when it comes to war, not much has changed. Laws of War exist but are ignored, war criminals can hide and far too few are being brought before the International Criminal Court to account for their crimes.

Women are often at the receiving end in conflicts and wars – not only are they responsible for elderly parents and children, needing to provide safety, food and shelter, but they themselves also become targets for violent aggression.

As was the case for women in the ancient Greek tales. The conqueror had the right to do with the women captives as they pleased. Sexual violence and rape were commonly accepted prizes and deserved entitlements of the victor. Women were mere objects. This also extended to the private sphere and relations between men and women, as the story of Clytemnestra shows.

Clytemnestra (sister of Helen of Sparta) is a main figure in Greek mythology and is often depicted as the archetypal evil wife for killing her hero husband, Agamemnon, the ‘King of Men’ of the Greek Army when returning from their victorious war against Troy.

There are different versions of the story – in one, Clytemnestra’s first husband and baby are brutally murdered by Agamemnon who then forces Clytemnestra to become his wife. Years later, Agamemnon then proceeds to sacrifice his own daughter (with Clytemnestra), Iphigenia, to the gods to gain advantageous travel conditions on their voyage to Troy.

Whilst fictional, this and similar tales reflect the attitudes towards women at the time and how they would be treated and how they suffered at the hands of men in power and as victims of war.

Contemporary examples of violence against women are plentiful. Violence against women in war is used to create fear, to hurt and humiliate, to break up families, communities and societies.

Sexual violence and rape as systematic weapons of war are widely documented. They were used, for example, during the Rwandan genocide where 100,000-250,000 women were raped in three months in 1994.[1]

“UN agencies estimate that more than 60,000 women were raped during the civil war in Sierra Leone (1991-2002), more than 40,000 in Liberia (1989-2003), up to 60,000 in the former Yugoslavia (1992-1995), and at least 200,000 in the Democratic Republic of the Congo since 1998.”[2]

A recent Guardian newspaper[3] article described the horrors inflicted upon the female hostages during the 7th October 2023 attack of Hamas on Israel. The brutalities suffered by these women were justified as “the spoils of war”.

A recent report[4] by the UN Secretary General on sexual violence in conflict refers to sexual violence as “[…] rape, sexual slavery, forced prostitution, forced pregnancy, forced abortion, enforced sterilization, forced marriage, and any other forms of sexual violence of comparable gravity perpetrated against women, men, girls or boys that is directly or indirectly linked to a conflict.”[5]

This widening definition includes men, boys and of course girls and shows that civilians and the most vulnerable are strategic pawns in the calculation and tactics of war, whether by armed state or non-state actors.

The horror of war itself – even without sexual violence – is mainly borne by women, children and other civilians. This is tragically now evident in Gaza. Recent figures indicate that the death toll has surpassed 28,400 people, whilst over 69,000 have been injured.[6] An article by Associated Press calculates that three-quarters of the fatalities are women and children. [7]

War impacts mostly on civilians and as the above figures show, these tend to be largely women and children. Even if managing to survive military attacks and bombings, a lack of access to clean water, food, medical care and shelter present life-threatening conditions – coping with injury, loss and trauma of everything endured, however, are the injuries and wounds that continue a lifetime.

The above themes present the background and story of the three new pieces I created. Their titles are as important as the physical pieces as they provide context and meaning. They seek to present the continuing tragedy of the suffering of women during conflict. The names were chosen to reflect that war affects and makes women suffer across time, place and religion, drawing attention to the different layers of pain and suffering.

The titles of the three pieces are as follows:

·         Clytemnestra’s Tears – Trophies of Power. (necklace)

·         Dafna’s Cries – The Spoils of War. (brooch)

·         Fatima’s Memories – The Wounds that Never Heal. (ring)

 

The pieces will also appear on my website in due course. Here are a few more details about each piece:

Clytemnestra’s Tears – Trophies of Power: Necklace, 166 cm long (a very long necklace to be doubled up around the neck), each link: 30x9 mm, recycled Sterling silver, rice pearls, 24ct gold foil (Keum-Boo). 

This black chain-like necklace with its pearl tears symbolises the ongoing pain from the trauma suffered by women, when these tears and pain mean nothing to and are mere trophies of power for the perpetrator.

 

Dafna’s Cries – The Spoils of War: Brooch, 45x35 mm, recycled Sterling silver, rice pearls, 24ct gold foil (Keum-Boo), nylon wire.

The gently curved, black shape represents the weeping, closed eye of a crying woman enduring sexual violence in war.

 

Fatima’s Memories – The Wounds that Never Heal: Ring, 30x32 mm, recycled Sterling silver, 24ct gold foil (Keum-Boo).

The fractured surface, somewhat patched at the back, stands for the emotional scars caused by the trauma women endure during war and which may last a lifetime and which never really heal.

 


Show Details: Cluster Contemporary Jewellery Fair

Date: 21-23 March 2024,
Location: Chelsea Old Town Hall, King’s Rd., London, SW3 5EB;
Nearest Tube: South Kensington, Sloane Square
Opening times: 12 – 8pm
Web: https://www.cluster-london.com/jewellery


[1] Sexual Violence: a Tool of War, UN Special Representative on Sexual Violence in Conflict, Ms Zainab Hawa Bangura, Outreach Programme on the Rwanda Genocide and the United Nations, Department of Public Information, March 2014; p1; https://www.un.org/en/preventgenocide/rwanda/assets/pdf/Backgrounder%20Sexual%20Violence%202014.pdf

[2] Ibid; p1

[3] Evidence points to systematic use of rape and sexual violence by Hamas in 7 October attacks, Bethan McKernan, The Guardian, 18 January 2024

[4] Conflict Related Sexual Violence, Report S/2023/413 of the Secretary General of the UN Security Council, 22 June 2023; https://www.securitycouncilreport.org/atf/cf/%7B65BFCF9B-6D27-4E9C-8CD3-CF6E4FF96FF9%7D/S_2023_413.pdf

[5] Ibid., p2 §5

[6] UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (UNOCHA) state current casualty figures as follows: 28,473 Palestinians killed; 69,146 Palestinians injured; 1.7 million persons displaced in Gaza. https://www.ochaopt.org/

[7] Israeli forces rescue 2 hostages in dramatic Gaza raid that killed at least 67 Palestinians, Associated Press article, by Najib Jobain, Josef Federman and Samy Magdy; https://apnews.com/article/israel-hamas-war-news-02-12-2024-4ade5edf47711c6b0c13d1380980de2b

Blog 19: Upcoming Autumn Shows 2023

The autumn craft fair season is well and truly under way and here is a list of my upcoming shows and exhibitions, where you are able to see and try on my pieces.

I will be there in person at the new Acquire Fair in Harrogate and at MADE London.


Acquire:

This is a brand new jewellery and silversmithing fair in Harrogate, Yorkshire and I am delighted to have been selected to partake. I will be there in person and look forward to meeting new customers and to showing and explaining my work.

Dates: 13-15th October 2023

Location: the Crown Hotel, Harrogate, Yorkshire, HG1 2RZ, UK

Website: www.acquire.uk.com

There will be a Private View on the evening of Thursday, 12th October from 6-8pm. If you would like to attend the private view, please let me know. I have a few tickets available.

If you would like to receive a complimentary ticket to the show, please email the organiser: joanne.acquire@gmail.com

I will be showing recent pieces as well as some brand new work.


Yorkshire Sculpture Park:

I will show a selection of my work at the MADE showcase at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park – this is the YSP Shop's changing programme of contemporary craft and jewellery.

Dates: 16th October 2023 – 6th April 2024

Location: Yorkshire Sculpture Park, West Bretton, Wakefield WF4 4LG, UK

Website: www.ysp.org.uk


MADE London

One of my favourite shows is finally back! Early bird tickets at £10 are now available – until 9th October. At the door tickets will be £15. Please see the link below.

I will be there in person, showing recent as well as brand new work and I look forward to meeting old and new customers.

Dates: 3rd – 5th November 2023

Location: THE BLOCK, White Lion Street, Islington, N1 9PD

Website: www.madelondon-angel.co.uk

Buy Tickets: www.madelondon-angel.co.uk/buy-tickets/


New Brewery Arts

A selection of my pieces will be shown at New Brewery Arts for their Christmas exhibtion.

Dates: 28th October 2023 until early January 2024.

Location: New Brewery Arts, Brewery Court, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 1JH

Website: www.newbreweryarts.org.uk


















Blog 18: Teaching
 
 

In the spring of 2018 I taught my first lesson as a jewellery tutor. After conquering my nervousness over the next few weeks, I found myself actually really enjoying it. I have been teaching since then in different settings, including setting up and conducting over 50 craft workshops to refugees, vulnerable adults and children. These workshops were carried out as part of my work for the charity The Breslaff Centre, for whom I worked for over twenty years in different capacities.

In these workshops, we did fabric printing, sewing, paper crafts, embroidery, crochet, jewellery making and weaving, amongst many other activities. I loved seeing women come and sit together, chatting whilst engaging in craft activities and seeing them relax and forget their worries for a while. It was wonderful to see their confidence grow and their pride in the pieces they accomplished.

Jewellery Tutor at Rachel Jeffrey

I started teaching jewellery making at Rachel Jeffrey in 2020 and have since been teaching there regular Monday and Tuesday morning sessions, one-day taster courses as well as some selected Master Classes, which are taught over a whole weekend.

I love teaching and wanted to use the July Blog to talk about this aspect of my work in more detail.

The students who come to us have different motivations and reasons for doing so: some were given a gift voucher for a taster class; others want to learn a new skill, whilst others again want to fulfil a long-cherished dream about making jewellery. A number of the students that come to our regular weekly classes had indeed first done a one-day taster class and wanted to continue from there.

Each class has students with different levels of knowledge – from beginner to students who have done it for many years. There is usually a lovely and friendly atmosphere between the students and they cherish the time to work on their individual projects as much as being able to learn from each other.

At the beginning of each class there is a circa 10 minute technical demonstration by the tutor. Each of us five tutors has their own expertise and style of teaching. I have found it useful to group my demonstrations into themes that run over each 10-week course. Some of the topics we have covered recently were, for example, toolmaking, chains, rings, cold connections and found objects.

My personal ambition when it comes to teaching is being able to reduce the fear about making (or using certain tools or processes) and about being creative. I am so happy when I am able to instil a sense of excitement about the making process and about learning.

I am passionate about learning and want to pass on a curiosity about how to make and that there is often more than one ‘right’ way of doing this. I want to encourage my students to keep trying, even in the face of mistakes or initial failures. I also want them to be kind to themselves during this learning process: I want them to allow mistakes, to learn from them, even be surprised by them and to be excited by what these mistakes can sometimes offer.

Below are some images of the teaching workshop (click to enlarge):

Rachel Jeffrey’s shop and teaching workshop are located in the beautiful village of Wheathampstead in Hertfordshire, not far from St Albans. In this brief video, I chat to her about how she started her shop and workshop and all the classes she offers.

 
 

Rachel has great facilities in her workshop, which is located in the very old building of a former watermill. Below I took a brief video of the workshop. The background noise you can hear is that of the River Lea rushing through the building underneath.

 
 

Finally, here is a selection of the kind words some of our students have left:

I started five years ago. As a hobby or interest as I have always wanted to make jewellery for myself, my own designs. I now sell a few pieces here and there! I have learnt so much and our teacher Hendrike is patient, kind and makes sure we understand every detail. I love coming here every week.” TK

I started nine months ago at Rachel Jeffrey. It’s been a skill that I have always wanted to learn and I haven’t looked back. Our tutor Hendrike is lovely and very thorough. The workshop is a delight and I look forward to the class every week.” NB

I started lessons in 2019 with my daughter who was keen to learn and soon became very keen myself. The workshop is set in the basement area of an old mill, with the sound of the River Lea rushing past. Our tutor Hendrike is excellent, always ready to answer questions and every week there’s a demo showing examples of various skills needed to produce a whole range of jewellery. We have attended several weekend workshops with various tutors which have been very informative.” JS

Hendrike is just the kind of teacher you want – patient, encouraging and positive. Her knowledge and incredible skill are an inspiration to someone who is new to jewellery making and her detailed handouts make everything really clear. I have loved the opportunity to develop my creative ideas and practical skills under her thoughtful and kind tutelage.” KH



If you would like to find out more about the classes that Rachel offers or, indeed, sign up to any of our term time courses starting in September or the taster classes, please click the link below.



Blog 12: Looking Back and Ahead

I think many people agree that the end of the year is always a time to reflect on the past months and to make plans for the coming year. As a mother, teacher and independent business life is always busy, it never stops and it is easy to forget or only focus on the things that were difficult or didn’t go to plan.

So, as part of this review I wanted to use this last Blog of the year to go over the things that I am particularly proud of having achieved this year!

And of course, I wanted to take this opportunity to thank you for your support this year - for reading my blogs, liking my posts and for purchasing my pieces! I wish you all well for the coming year: happiness, health and peace!

Blog

My monthly Blog was one of my biggest projects this year and one I am immensely proud of – proud because I actually did them! It wasn’t always easy to stick to my deadlines but I really enjoyed the research, writing and the opportunity to learn.

I wrote on a variety of subjects: some blogs were connected to my collection (e.g. Blogs 2 & 6), whilst others were more technical (e.g. Blogs 7-11). The technical blogs were definitely the more challenging and were written so as to expand my own knowledge on these subjects and of course to deepen my understanding on the environmental aspects. This often involved a sharp learning curve (thank you internet!), especially on anything related to chemistry – definitely not one of my favourite subjects at school.

I like to continue the blogs and look forward to seeing how they will evolve.

ACJ Meanings and Messages

The Association for Contemporary Jewellery (ACJ) celebrated its 25th anniversary this year and as part of these celebrations it had planned a touring exhibition with the title Meanings and Messages. The Association invited members to submit entries – brooches – with this title in mind. I was very fortunate that my entry, Elpis Brooch, was one those selected. When visiting the private view at its first venue I was overwhelmed by the imagination and breadth of interpretation of all the entries. I wrote a separate Blog about this exhibition which you can read here.

This show is still ongoing and will travel next to the Goldsmiths’ Centre in London where it will be shown from 9th January – 24th February 2023. The last venue will be at New Brewery Arts – 4 April – 18 June 2023.

Current Collection Interrupted Patterns

The above brooch was the starting point for my current collection, Interrupted Patterns, which I launched at the Craft Festival at Bovey Tracey in June, where it was very well received. The collection had started with reading Greek mythology, a visit to the ancient Greek collection at the British Museum and focussing on the use of patterns on these artefacts. Writing about it in my Blogs helped immensely to focus my thinking and I loved being able to share the background and design process of these pieces.

Craft Festival Bovey Tracey

The Craft Festival at Bovey Tracey is a well-established craft fair and it was my first time exhibiting my work there in June this year. Following the pandemic, it was also my first in-person show again and it was wonderful being able to re-connect directly with customers and fellow makers. I was really impressed with the organisation and quality of the show and look forward to being there again next year!

Teaching

During 2022 I have continued to teach a variety of classes at the jewellery school of Rachel Jeffrey in Wheathampstead. In my regular day-time classes I ran a term-long project on Found Materials and Cold Connections. This was a wonderful opportunity for my students (new and more experienced ones) to look at their various old - and often broken - pieces of jewellery and to re-design them or re-use some of their elements. In doing so, we looked at the many ways different materials can be joined without using heat.

In another term we focussed on learning various techniques of making chain – again, a very interesting course and very much enriched by the input of all the students. I also taught a number of one-day taster courses, as well as some weekend-long intensive courses, such as my Keum-Boo course.

Being a teacher challenges my conceptions of what I know and my aim is always to make students feel comfortable and enable them to further their knowledge. If you would like to take part in any of my classes, please get in touch with myself or with Rachel Jeffrey.

Commissions

During the latter part of the year it was lovely to receive a number of interesting commissions and it was wonderful being able to closely involve the clients in the design process.

If you would like to commission a piece, please do get in touch. I would love to hear your thoughts and ideas and how we could explore them further together.

ACJ magazine Findings

In early December I was happily surprised to receive my copy of the ACJ magazine Findings and to find that some of my Kumihimo work was featured there. Kumihimo is an ancient Japanese silk braiding technique, originally used to make traditional Obi (belts) for Japanese kimono. I used this technique to create patterned silk braids and used them in various necklaces and brooches. Click here to find out more about this technique.

The focus of the Findings magazine was on textile techniques used by a variety of jewellery makers in their work. Thank you ACJ for including me!

Find a Maker and Made by Hand Online

Earlier in the year I applied to be included in these two online craft platforms and was very pleased to have been accepted. Both platforms represent and further the interests of selected makers. You can click to see me pages by clicking these links: Find a Maker and MadeByHandOnline

Next Year: 2023

Plans for next year are already well underway and I have accepted show offers on three exhibitions. The first two will be the Craft Festival at Cheltenham Town Hall from 10-12 March 2023 and the Craft Festival at Bovey Tracey, Devon from 9-11 June 2023. The Craft Festival in Cheltenham will be a new fair for me and I am looking forward to meeting new clients there.  As mentioned above, I greatly enjoyed the Craft Festival at Bovey Tracey earlier in the year and look forward to being there again next year.

As I have not done any fairs in London since March 2019, I am also extremely excited to be taking part again in a Central London Fair in November next year. I can’t share any details just yet, but they will follow in due course!

 
 
Blog 10: Tarnish Removal (Part 1)

In my 10th (October) Blog I wanted to write about the removal of tarnish from silver jewellery. However, October and November have been busy months and I did not manage to finish this piece.

Now, at the end of November it is almost finished but it has once more become a lengthier article and so I decided to divide it into two, more manageable pieces.

Motivation

As to my motivations for writing about this topic: When I set up my website I wrote a section for my customers (or those interested) on how to look after their jewellery. I covered tarnish removal but recently felt that it could do with updating.

More specifically, I wanted to investigate methods other than using a polishing cloth and those which worked well on textured or satin surfaces. I did some research and conducted some experiments to see which methods worked, were environmentally friendly and could be replicated at home.

What is tarnish?

Silver is a white metal which has been widely used throughout the ages. Its sought-after qualities include its high lustre, reflectivity, superior thermal and electrical conductivity as well as very good malleability and ductility.

Silver is an element with the symbol Ag, lies within Group 11 and Period 5 of the Periodic Table and has the Atomic Number 47. In its pure state silver is very soft, making it often impractical for use in jewellery. It is therefore alloyed (mixed) with copper which makes it harder and produces what we term Sterling Silver. The ratio of metals in Sterling Silver is 925 parts pure silver and 75 parts copper.

Pure silver barely reacts with oxygen, however, it reacts with sulphur-containing gasses in the air. The most common is hydrogen sulphide (for example contained in hard-boiled eggs, decomposing plants or animals.) Silver reacts with this gas and produces the compound silver sulphide (Ag2S) and it is this, we define as the brownish-black tarnish on silver. (In Sterling silver the reaction with hydrogen sulphide also produces copper sulphide (Cu2S).)

Tarnish, therefore, is the result of a chemical reaction between a metal and a gas

Early silver Athenian coin, 5th century BCE. British Museum. By I, PHGCOM, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2392720

Which metals are affected and why?

Tarnish can affect different metals. Copper, brass and aluminium can also tarnish through their exposure to oxygen or other gases, but silver needs hydrogen sulphide to form this dark layer of tarnish.

Unlike rust, however, the tarnish layer actually protects the inner layers of the metal from further tarnishing. A newly polished piece of silver, therefore, tarnishes quicker than an already tarnished piece. However, tarnish changes the original appearance of the piece and this is why most people would like it removed.

Traditional methods of removal?

There are many ways in which tarnish can be removed from silver once it has occurred, though it is best to prevent the tarnish from occurring in the first place. This can be achieved by storing the silver article in a sealed plastic bag or container, thus avoiding contact with air which may contain hydrogen sulphide.

To remove tarnish, once it has occurred, the following methods have traditionally been used to remove tarnish from silver:

  • by mechanical action of polishing the silver, using a silver polishing cloth

  • by immersing the silver into a chemical solution (silver dip)

  • by an electrochemical process, involving baking soda, water and aluminium

Before any tarnish is removed, the piece should be gently cleaned with warm soapy water and a soft cloth or toothbrush to remove any other dirt particles that may have accumulated.

Mechanical action – Polishing Cloths

All mechanical polishing action involves some kind of abrasive particles to remove the tarnish (as well as some silver), although some products are gentler than others. It is advisable to check on a test piece how aggressive or not your chosen product is.

Polishing cloths are soft cloths that are impregnated with a polishing compound which removes the tarnish and usually also a tarnish inhibitor which prevents (or slows down) tarnish from occurring.

These cloths are very gentle and are a good way of removing light tarnish from your silver jewellery and they work particularly well on polished surfaces. They can also be used on textured surfaces but on coarser textures or heavy tarnish they may not be able to remove all the tarnish. Using them on matte or satin surfaces will result in the surfaces being shinier than before.

Polishing cloths can also be used on pieces with 24ct gold Keum-Boo patterns. The surface will become shinier than the original finish.

Chemical solutions (silver dip)

These chemical dips are available from different companies. They work by immersing the tarnished piece of silver into the solution for a couple of minutes and then rinsing and drying it. The tarnish will have been removed.

They are not suitable for all items, especially if other materials or gemstones are included in the piece.

These dips contain an acid (in the brands I compared, these were hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid) and other chemicals that may be harmful to the user. In the safety data sheets of two different brands I compared these substances were classed as hazardous to health.

Due to these chemicals these solutions are very difficult to safely dispose of after use.

- To be continued in Part Two -